A Windlass is the mechanical device mounted on the foredeck to haul in the anchor and its rode. It works through a notched wheel called a gypsy (or chainwheel) that grips the chain link by link, often paired with a smooth drum for rope, and it may be driven by hand, by an electric motor or hydraulically. For a beginner, the windlass is what makes anchoring a cruising boat practical without a strong back. The experienced skipper adds the rule that saves more windlasses than any other: it is a hauling machine, not a mooring point. Never let the boat lie to the windlass at anchor, and never use it to drag the boat up to the anchor – motor forward and let the windlass gather the slack.
Types of Windlass
- Horizontal windlass: the shaft runs across the deck, with the gypsy on one side and usually a rope drum on the other. The motor and gearbox sit above deck. Chain drops straight down the hawse pipe, which suits shallow chain lockers.
- Vertical windlass: the shaft is vertical, with the gypsy and capstan drum stacked on deck and the motor below. Chain wraps a half-turn around the gypsy before dropping, which gives better grip and a cleaner deck, but needs depth in the locker.
- Manual windlass: worked with a lever or handle, common on smaller boats and as a fallback. Slow but utterly reliable.
- Electric and hydraulic: electric is the norm on cruising yachts; hydraulic is found on larger boats where high continuous power is needed.
The gypsy must match the chain exactly in size and link pattern, or the chain will jump and jam. The rope drum, sometimes called a capstan or warping drum, is for hauling rope rode, kedge warps and mooring lines.
Using It Well
- Anchoring: lower the anchor under control rather than letting it run free, so the chain does not pile on top of it. Use the clutch or the power-down function.
- Snub the load: once the anchor is set, rig a snubber – a length of nylon from a bow cleat to the chain – so the windlass never takes the shock loads. Many boats also fit a chain stopper.
- Weighing anchor: motor gently toward the anchor while the windlass takes up slack. When the chain is vertical, pause and let the boat’s buoyancy break the anchor out, then haul.
- Wash as you go: a deck wash keeps mud out of the locker and off the gypsy.
Keep fingers, hair and loose clothing clear of the gypsy, and never try to clear a jam with the power on.
Sizing and Power
The usual rule is that a windlass should have a maximum pull of around three times the total weight of the ground tackle it will lift – anchor plus the full length of chain. Working load is a fraction of that maximum, and it falls sharply as battery voltage drops, so run the engine while anchoring, fit heavy cables sized for the run to the bow, and give the windlass its own breaker or isolator.
Maintenance
A windlass lives in the wettest, saltiest part of the boat. Rinse it with fresh water, strip and grease the clutch cones and gypsy annually, check the gearbox oil, and inspect the electrical connections below deck, since a corroded connection at high current is a fire risk. Know how to operate it manually, and keep the handle where you can find it in the dark.
Cruising Versus Racing
For a cruising boat a windlass is close to essential; it makes it possible to anchor often, in deep water, with heavy chain, and to re-anchor without argument when the first set is poor. Racers see a heavy machine in the bow and remove it, carrying a lighter anchor and rode to satisfy safety regulations and hauling by hand when they must.
Windlass, Winch and Capstan
A winch is a drum for hauling lines under load, mounted around the cockpit and mast; it has no gypsy and is not designed for chain. A capstan is a vertical drum for rope, and the term is also used for the rope drum on a vertical windlass. The windlass is the only one of the three built to handle chain.
Frequently Asked Questions about a Windlass
Can I leave the boat hanging on the windlass at anchor?
No. Rig a snubber or use a chain stopper so that shock loads go to the boat’s structure, not to the windlass gearbox and its deck fastenings.
Why does my chain jump on the gypsy?
Almost always because the chain does not exactly match the gypsy in size or link pattern, or because the chain is worn or stretched. A gypsy is cut for one specific chain.
How big a windlass do I need?
Look for a maximum pull of roughly three times the combined weight of your anchor and chain, and make sure the electrical system can deliver full voltage to it with the engine running.
A windlass turns anchoring from a chore into a routine, and a routine is what makes a crew anchor in the right place instead of the easy one. Treat it as a hauling machine, take the load off it with a snubber, keep it greased, and it will bring the anchor home for years.